How many gods do you need for happiness? 18 Moments of Japanese Autumn - Tokyo, Kanazawa, Kyoto

So, let's start, a moment the first - Tokyo. According to the map, our hotel is two hundred meters from the exit of the metro. We have been walking much longer, but the hotel is not there. Two Japanese in business suits. And this is not surprising, we are in downtown Tokyo. They do not speak English, but they try to help with fantastic enthusiasm, nothing happens, our map is English-speaking. One Japanese leaves us - a working day, after all. But no, running, dear, drags a map of the city in Japanese! Here the “tourist's vocabulary minimum” is already in progress: left, forward, etc., but this is not the case, but the great desire to help, regardless of any obstacles.

Instant the second. A huge temple. Senso-ji. He is 1,400 years old. And no one is embarrassed that he is actually completely rebuilt again after World War II. People crowd around the censer with incense, trying to attract as much smoke as possible to their side and “rub” it into sore spots. They say that should help.

But more impressive is a young Japanese woman in a kimono, quite the same as in the old drawings. But I was convinced that the Japanese wear national clothes only on especially solemn occasions. I look at her with all my eyes. How uncomfortable she is, probably, in these high unstable slippers and inflexible broad belt ... Gradually, the look of Japanese women in kimono will become familiar to me, because this is quite normal in Japan. So 2–5% of Japanese women are dressed (the smaller the city, the more Japanese women in kimono). And it has nothing to do with the holidays. Japanese daily life.

Instant the third. Park Hakone. A huge pleasure boat, stylized with the meticulousness inherent in the Japanese, under the pirate brig, silently cuts through the waters of the lake. Torii is the bright red gate of a Shinto temple dedicated to the god of the lake. So simple: two pillars, two crossbars. Brilliant. And so beautiful against the backdrop of Fuji that I want to cry ...

Fourth instant. National Museum in Tokyo. The largest repository of objects of Japanese culture. Huge spacious buildings. Hall of lacquered tableware. Only a half dozen exhibits. And it is right. After all, each of them - a masterpiece. And so in every showroom. Oh, respite. Mature Japanese woman bows and says something. It turns out that they offer me to create a personal kimono, on a paper contour, of course. I get down to business with all seriousness. Trying not to deceive the expectations of a cute woman, I quickly look through the symbolism before slapping a stamp.

Fuji - all the best for the Japanese, pine - resilience, cranes - longevity ... Something is wrong, the Japanese woman tensed. The number of cranes? Oh yeah, four - associated in Japan with death. I make a print of the fifth. Wonderful! Good number! Excellent taste! And now - forward, to the subject of my desire, to the national treasury. Here she is. A huge dark room ... Empty. Where are the treasures? They are set one at a time. Today it is an ancient scroll. And all? Yes, it is in Japanese ...

Fifth instant. Kanazawa is an ancient city. It is remarkable that the Second World War did not touch him, so everything here is safe and sound. I want to Kenrokuen Park! One of the top three in Japan. Four hundred years! I, of course, not a park specialist, but this is really a special place. Beauty and peace. I want to stay here forever and live alone in one of these small houses, so cozy fit into the landscape.

Ah, is it tea houses? Only for tea ceremonies? And I can also? Did not expect. I thought the ceremony was not allowed to tourists, this is a whole art ... The view from the inside is even better, the landscape was only framed by a terrace window. It smells of wood, clean and warm. Here is the tea. A frothy, muted green liquid that tastes completely different from green tea in my usual sense. Yummy! But for a long time I cannot decide to destroy the sweet work of art served for tea. Sakura flower. With all shades. How much time did it take to make it? And for the Japanese, it is absolutely not important, the main thing come closer to perfection ...

Sixth instant. Kyoto. The huge Nijou Castle is the official residence of the Tokugawa Shogun dynasty. Edo period. The luxury of decoration and asceticism. Paul squeaks, sighs and whistles at all voices from every step. The famous "nightingale floor." It took so much time to make this sound system. And we have always considered a defect, which must be eliminated without fail!

Instant seventh. Kinkaku-ji - the Golden Pavilion. One of those masterpieces that catch your breath and your heart stops. Like a golden swan, frozen, soaring from the water surface ...

Instant eighth. Ryoan-ji Temple. The pointer says that the Rock Garden is already very close. Garden of fifteen stones. Arranged so that only fourteen are visible at a time. People from all over the world are going to see this sample of garden art and meditate among them. Strange place. Diligently “combed” gravel imitates water. Stones are arranged in groups. In each group, an energy conflict is felt. Some stones suppress others. These others resist ... Everything, as in life, where there is always something hidden from us, like the fifteenth stone of Ryoan-ji garden.

What is happiness and what gods grant it? Every nation has its own opinion on this question, but the Japanese approach is unusually wise and simple. About this - in the second part of the article.

Watch the video: How Expensive is it to Travel Japan? Budget Travel Tips (September 2019).

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